UNIVERSITY    OF    CALIFORNIA     AGRICULTURAL    EXPERIMENT   STATION 

BENJ.    IDE    WHEELER,    PRESIDENT 

THOMAS    FORSYTH    HUNT,    Dean  an  d  Di  rector 

BERKELEY  h.  e.  van  norman,  vice-director  and  dean 

University  Farm    School 


COLLEGE   OF   AGRICULTURE 


CIRCULAR  No.  185 
November,  1917 


BEEKEEPING  FOR  THE  FRUIT-GROWER 
AND  SMALL  RANCHER,  OR  AMATEUR 


By  GEO.  A.  COLEMAN 


Honey  bees  are  necessary  for  the  proper  pollination  of  nearly  all 
fruits  and  berries,  some  vegetables,  and  alfalfa  and  clover  where 
grown  for  seed.  For  this  purpose  alone  at  least  one  colony  of  bees 
should  be  kept  for  every  five  acres  of  fruits,  or  for  a  smaller  acreage 


(Student  Apiary  on  the  Campus,  University  of  California) 

of  berries  and  vegetables.  They  will  increase  the  crop  in  the  case 
of  some  varieties  from  ten  to  one  hundred  per  cent,  producing  more 
perfect,  therefore  more  salable,  fruit.  A  few  colonies  of  bees  require 
less  care  than  a  cow  or  a  dozen  hens,  and  will  produce  annually  from 
forty  to  one  hundred  pounds  of  surplus  honey,  which  may  be  used  as 
food,  sold  for  cash  or  traded  for  other  food. 

THE  KIND  OF  BEES  TO  KEEP 

There  are  four  races  of  bees  which  are  being  successfully  cultivated 
by  beekeepers.  Opinions  differ  as  to  the  value  of  each.  The  principal 
characteristics  of  these  races  are  as  follows: 

The  native  blacks  (probably  derived  from  the  German  black  bees) 
are  generally  energetic,  good  honey  gatherers  and  cap  their  'comb 


white  ;  they  are  easily  irritated  and  therefore  Jiard  to  handle  ;  they  also 
readily  succumb  to  bee  diseases,  the  wax  moth,  or  other  enemies. 

The  Carniolans  are  gentle  and  good  workers,  but  have  a  tendency 
to  swarm ;  they  cap  the  comb  white  and  gather  very  little  propolis 
or  bee  glue,  which  is  a  valuable  trait  in  the  production  of  comb  honey ; 
they  are  more  resistant  to  diseases  than  the  blacks. 

The  Caucasians  are  the  gentlest  of  all  the  races,  but  swarm  exces- 
sively in  most  localities  where  tried ;  their  most  disagreeable  trait  is 
that  they  stick  the  sections  and  frames  up  with  propolis  the  worst  of 
all  races. 

The  Italian  bees  are  generally  very  gentle,  pleasant  to  handle, 
and  good  honey  gatherers,  their  habit  of  placing  the  capping  down 
close  to  the  honey,  making  them  more  adapted  to  the  production  of 
extracted  than  of  comb  honey,  although  in  a  good  flow  of  nectar  some 
strains  of  Italians  will  produce  as  fine  white  comb  honey  as  any  one 
could  wish.  The  most  valuable  trait  is  their  energetic  defense  of 
the  colony  against  all  enemies,  and  their  resistance  to  foul-brood 
diseases.  Taking  all  things  into  consideration,  it  is  believed  the 
Italian  bees  will  give  the  best  satisfaction  in  most  localities.  Bee- 
keepers are  divided  as  to  the  best  strains,  some  favoring  the  golden, 
some  the  3-5-banded,  and  some  the  dark  or  so-called  leather-colored 
Italians.  The  author's  personal  experience  is  that  a  good,  vigorous 
queen  of  any  one  of  them  is  all  right,  the  golden  probably  being  the 
gentlest  and  the  queens  easiest  to  find  on  account  of  their  light  color, 
but  for  energetic  bees  and  returns  in  honey  the  leather-colored  are 
ahead. 

WHERE  TO  OBTAIN  BEES  TO  BEGEN  WITH 
It  is  usually  best  for  the  beginner  to  purchase  a  few  colonies  of  a 
neighbor  or  nearby  beekeeper,  and  avoid  moving  them  any  great 
distance.  If  they  are  not  just  the  kind  desired,  one  can  soon  change 
their  complexion  by  introducing  Italian  queens  of  the  desired  strain. 
If  none  are  to  be  obtained  in  the  neighborhood,  they  can  be  purchased 
of  any  reliable  breeder  advertising  in  the  bee  journals. 

EQUIPMENT  NECESSARY 
Hives. — The  standard  hive  is  now  the  Langstroth,  dove-tailed  hive 
(see  illustration),  equipped  with  ten  L-Hoffman  frames,  self-spacing, 
in  the  brood  chamber,  using  full  sheets  of  comb  foundation,  wired  in. 
For  extracted,  or  chunk  honey,  three  to  five  shallow  extracting  supers 
equipped  with  frames  and  full  sheets  of  foundation  wired  in  if  for 
extracting;  or  if  only  chunk  honey  is  desired  starters  only  may  be 
used. '  For  comb  honey,  one  shallow  extracting  frame  and  three  to 


five  comb  honey  supers  for  each  colony  should  be  provided.  Bee- 
keepers differ  in  their  opinion  as  to  the  use  of  full  sheets  of  founda- 
tion in  the  sections,  as  against  starters.  The  author  prefers  a  starter 
at  both  top  and  bottom  of  the  section,  the  upper  one  a  triangle,  the 
lower  a  narrow  strip.  A  little  experimenting  will  determine  which  is 
best  for  a  given  locality. 


Comb  Honey  Supe 


NOTE. — Not  regular  stock  combination. 

Standard  Langstroth,  or  Dove-tailed  Hive  (After  Eoot) 


Whatever  type  of  hive  and  supers  is  selected,  be  sure  that  you 
have  a  supply  on  hand  long  before  the  flow  of  nectar  is  expected. 
Most  beginners,  and  some  experienced  beekeepers,  too,  wait  until  the 
honey  flow  is  on  before  ordering  their  supplies  and  then  wonder  why 
they  don't  get  any  honey.  Preparedness  is  the  secret  of  success  in 
the  honey  business.  Anticipate  your  needs  and  supply  them  in 
advance. 


Bee  Smoker. — A  standard  Root,  or  some  other  reliable  bee  smoker, 
is  a  necessity.     (Illustration.) 

Bee  Veil. — The  best  is  one  made  of  black  netting  (cotton  tulle), 
with  either  a  silk  or  black  wire  facing  in  front  of  the  eyes ;  made  with 
a  rubber  band  in  the  upper  end  to  fit  over  the  crown  of  any  old  straw 
hat,  with  ample  skirts  and  a  rubber  band  also  at  the  lower  end;  a 
strong  cord  at  either  corner,  tying  snugly  around  the  waist,  long 
enough  to  reach  around  and  tie  in  front,  keeping  the  veil  from  creep- 
ing up  around  the  neck,  and  the  bees  from  crawling  up  under,  which 
they  will  do  if  the  least  space  is  left  open  around  the  bottom.  (Illus- 
tration.) 


Bee  Smoker    (Standard  Boot) 

Hive  tools  are  also  a  necessity.  A  good,  strong,  wide-bladed 
screwdriver  will  answer  for  one,  but  the  special  steel  hive  tool  here 
illustrated  is  much  better  and  will  be  found  to  be  the  most  useful 
tool  about  the  apiary;  a  broad-bladed  glazier's  knife  will  be  found 
useful  in  scraping  hive  bodies,  frames,  etc.  The  other  tools  illustrated 
will  all  be  needed,  and  are  usually  found  in  the  equipment  of  any 
well  regulated  ranch.     (Illustration.) 

Bee  Gloves. — Are  provided  for  the  timid,  but  will  soon  be  discarded 
as  too  clumsy  and  hot,  causing  more  stings  than  they  prevent.  Learn 
to  handle  the  bees  with  your  sleeves  rolled  up  to  the  elbow,  and  you 
will  receive  very  few  stings. 


HOW   TO   HANDLE   BEES 
In  the  average-sized  family,  there  will  usually  be  found  one  person 
with  good,  steady  nerves,  who  is  a  keen  observer,  a  gentle  mover,  and 
a  lover  of  live  things.    Let  this  one  be  the  beekeeper. 


In  preparing  to  examine  a  colony  of  bees,  first  light  up  your 
smoker,  using  rotten  oak  wood,  old  burlap  sacking,  or  oiled  waste  for 
fuel ;  something  to  make  a  good  blue  smoke,  not  a  smudge,  the  object 
of  smoke  being  to  alarm  the  bees,  causing  them  to  fill  themselves  with 


Bee  Veil  (to  slip  over  any  old  straw  hat)  Bee  Veil  (showing  manner  of  adjusting) 

honey,  in  which  condition  they  are  easily  handled,  but  not  to  suffocate 
or  injure  them.  Most  beginners  use  too  much  smoke ;  a  little  now  and 
then  to  quiet  their  nerves  is  all  that  is  needed  to  control  them. 


Tools  used  in  Apiary  work 


Put  on  the  bee  veil  and  tie  down  the  pantaloon  legs  (ladies  should 
wear  bloomers  or  overalls)  well  around  the  ankle,  or  use  bicycle  clips. 

With  smoker  and  hive  tool  in  hand,  approach  the  hive  from  the 
windward  and  back,  and  preferably  on  the  right  side,  never  in  front ; 
give  a  few  puffs  of  smoke  at  the  entrance  to  settle  the  guards;  with 


the  hive  tool  pry  up  the  cover  and  super  cover  about  one  eighth  of  an 
inch,  blow  in  a  few  puffs  of  smoke,  wait  a  minute,  then  carefully 
remove  the  cover,  placing  it  on  the  ground  at  the  back  of  the  hive; 
(after  a  little  practice  you  will  use  it  turned  on  edge  as  a  seat)  give 
a  few  puffs  of  smoke  on  the  tops  of  the  frames  to  drive  the  bees  down 
and  quiet  them,  and  then  hang  the  smoker  on  the  front  edge  of  the 
hive,  where  it  will  be  handy  if  needed  (you  will  find  a  hook  on  the 
back  of  the  bellows  for  this  purpose). 

With  your  hive  tool  begin  on  the  frame  next  to  you  and  pry  it 
loose  at  each  end,  as  you  will  usually  find  it  stuck  fast  with  propolis 
if  you  find  that  abomination,  a  division  board,  stuck  in  between  the 
hive  wall  and  the  frame,  take  it  out  and  do  not  return  it. 


WHAT  YOU  WILL  FIND  IN  THE  HIVE  AND  WHAT  TO  DO  WITH  IT 

The  first  frame  you  will  take  out  you  will  find  nicely  drawn  out. 
Remove  it  and  place  it  against  the  back  of  the  hive  out  of  your  and  the 
bees'  way,  in  order  that  you  may  have  room  to  work  with  the  other 
frames.  Now  look  out,  there  are  bees  all  over  the  next  frame,  and  they 
have  their  stings  ready  for  instant  use,  therefore  handle  carefully, 
and  don't  drop  it!  Get  a  good,  firm  grip  with  the  thumb  and  fore- 
finger on  each  end  of  the  top  bar,  being  careful  not  to  crush  a  single 
bee ;  lift  up  the  frame  very  slowly,  never  mind  the  bees,  they  will  get 
out  of  the  way;  if  you  should  happen  to  get  a  sting,  don't  drop  the 
comb:  hold  on  to  it,  and  quietly  remove  the  sting  with  a  scraping 
motion  of  your  thumb  nail  so  as  to  get  the  sting  out  without  squeez- 
ing the  poison  sac  which  would  put  more  poison  in  the  wound  and 
make  it  hurt  worse.  Then  go  on  with  your  work ;  the  bees  will  sting 
you  some  more  if  you  don't.  You  will  find  the  bees  gathered  on  the 
upper  third  of  the  comb  sticking  their  heads  into  the  honey  cells  and 
loading  up  on  it;  you  need  not  fear  their  stinging  while  they  are 
doing  this.  Just  below  the  honey  circle  you  will  see  a  circle  of  cells 
filled  with  a  brownish-yellow  sticky-looking  substance — "the  bee 
bread,"  or  food  for  the  young  larvae.  Watch  and  you  will  see  a 
worker  bee  with  a  mass  of  this  pollen,  for  that  is  what  it  is,  on  the 
hind  legs,  which  she  will  presently  dump  into  one  of  these  cells.  Hold 
the  frame  up  to  the  light,  getting  the  sun  right  into  the  cells  if  you 
can.  You  will  find  some  cells  with  white  looking  objects  of  various 
sizes — the  larvae.  In  some  cells  you  may  find  white  objects  standing 
on  end  in  the  bottom  of  the  cell ;  these  are  the  eggs,  which  will  hatch 
into  the  larvae.  In  another  cell  you  will  find  a  tiny  white  larva  curled 
up  at  the  bottom  in  a  mass  of  milky  fluid — the  "Royal  Jelly"- — upon 


which  all  larvae  are  fed  for  the  first  three  days,  and  which  is  a  sub- 
stance furnished  by  the  young  nurse  bees  from  certain  glands  in  the 
head  in  combination  with  stomach  secretions.  Other  cells  you  will 
find  capped  over,  which  look  very  opaque — not  transparent  like 
capped-over  honey  cells.  These  contain  the  pupal  cases,  which  have 
been  spun  by  the  larvae  and  in  which  they  change  to  the  adult  bee 
with  wings,  legs  and  antennae.  You  may  find  one  just  sticking  her 
head  through,  biting  away  the  capping  as  she  does  so,  her  antennae 
slowly  protruding,  and  then  sticking  her  tongue  out.  Watch  and 
you  will  see  a  young  worker  bee  run  to  her  assistance  and  perhaps 
offer  her  a  little  honey  on  her  own  tongue.  Now  look  over  the  comb 
and  you  will  see  some  young  bees  just  emerged,  their  wings  all 
crumpled  up  yet.    It  will  take  them  about  three  days  to  get  to  work. 


A  completed  queen  cell 

They  will  be  nurse  bees  now  for  two  weeks,  feeding  the  larvae,  polish- 
ing up  cells  and  doing  all  of  the  work  of  the  hive.  They  will  then 
become  field  bees,  gathering  nectar  and  pollen  and  bringing  it  to  the 
hive,  a  work  at  which  they  will  continue  until  they  drop  dead  on  some 
return  trip  loaded  down  with  honey;  well-behaved  and  healthy  bees 
never  die  in  the  hive. 

In  going  over  the  frames,  one  after  the  other,  methodically  examin- 
ing them  and  placing  them  back  in  the  hive  in  the  order  taken  out, 
you  may  suddenly  come  upon  the  Queen  traveling  leisurely  over  the 
comb,  examining  each  cell  carefully  to  see  if  the  bees  have  properly 
prepared  it  for  an  egg;  you  may  recognize  her  by  her  long  pointed 
abdomen,  which,  if  you  are  patient  and  quiet,  you  may  see  her  insert 
into  a  cell  and  deposit  an  egg  at  the  bottom,  taking  about  half  a 
minute  for  the  whole  operation.    If  it  is  during  the  spring,  or  breed- 


8 

ing  season,  you  may  run  across  one  or  more  very  large  cells  (see  illus- 
tration) on  the  lower  edge,  or  perhaps  on  the  side,  of  some  frame — a 
queen  cell,  from  which  a  virgin  queen  will  hatch  if  it  is  left  alone; 
and  when  this  happens  the  bees  will  swarm,  the  old  queen  going  off 
with  the  swarm,  leaving  a  young  queen  in  the  hive,  so  if  you  do  not 
want  them  to  swarm,  or  do  not  want  increase,  carefully  remove  these 
cells  and  destroy  them  once  a  week  during  the  breeding  season.  If 
you  do  want  increase,  take  out  a  frame  with  a  perfect  queen  cell  on 
it,  allowing  the  bees  to  remain  on  it,  and  another  frame  filled  with 
capped-over  brood,  also  one  filled  with  honey  and  "bee  bread,"  and 
put  them  in  one  side  of  the  new  hive,  filling  the  balance  of  the  hive 
with  combs  or  frames  with  full  sheets  of  foundation ;  place  this  hive  on 
a  new  stand  at  some  distance  from  the  old  hive  and  close  the  entrance 
so  that  only  a  few  bees  can  get  out  at  a  time.  Do  not  do  this  except  in 
warm,  settled  weather  or  your  new  colony  will  starve  or  chill. 

While  you  are  at  work  you  will  probably  be  alarmed  by  a  loud 
buzzing  and  several  big,  clumsy  bees  getting  in  your  way  continually. 
These  are  the  Drones  or  male  bees,  their  only  function  being  to  mate 
with  and  fertilize  the  queen.  They  do  not  work  and  the  nurse  bees 
are  even  compelled  to  feed  them,  since  their  tongues  are  cut  short 
and  they  are  unable  to  feed  themselves;  they  are  therefore  a  con- 
tinual drain  on  the  resources  of  the  hive  and  the  bees  get  rid  of  them 
as  soon  as  possible  after  their  function  is  performed,  by  taking  them 
out  of  the  hive  and  dropping  them  where  they  cannot  get  back. 

In  looking  over  the  frames  you  will  find  here  and  there  patches  of 
brood  comb  with  the  cells  considerably  larger  than  the  regular  worker 
cells,  the  capping  slightly  raised,  or  perhaps  some  big  head  with 
pinkish  eyes  exposed.  These  are  drone  cells  from  which  the  drones 
will  hatch.  To  prevent  a  lot  of  drones  hatching  cut  out  this  drone 
comb,  let  the  larva  die,  and  save  the  comb  for  wax.  Replace  such 
combs  with  frames  with  full  sheets  of  foundation  wired  in,  which  the 
bees  will  draw  out  into  worker  cells;  worker  bees  are  wanted  for  honey. 
If  you  find  a  hive  filled  with  drones  which  you  wish  to  get  rid  of, 
get  an  Alley  drone  trap  from  your  dealer  in  supplies  and  place  it  over 
the  entrance. 

CLEANING  UP  THE  HIVES  AND  FRAMES 
In  the  first  examination  in  the  spring  you  will  find  the  combs  all 
stuck  up  with  propolis,  honey  comb  stuck  on  top  of  the  frames,  or  in 
between  the  frames,  between  the  frames  and  the  walls  of  the  hive,  and 
some  crosswise — if  you  have  used  only  starters  in  the  brood  frames, 
or  no  foundation  at  all.  The  honey  comb,  or  burr-comb  as  it  is  called, 
should  all  be  removed  with  your  hive  tool,  or  scraper,  a  covered  tin 


9 

can  being  provided  to  receive  it  as  you  take  it  out,  keeping  the  can 
covered  to  prevent  "robbers"  from  getting  started.  The  propolis 
should  be  all  scraped  off  and  thrown  away.  Also  clean  all  droppings 
from  the  bottom  of  the  hive.  The  hive  should  be  put  into  first-class 
shape  for  the  spring  honey  flow  and  easy  examination. 

PREPARING  FOR  THE  HONEY  FLOW 

Your  supers  should  have  all  been  prepared  during  the  winter  when 
other  work  is  slack;  sections  and  foundation  all  in,  ready  to  put  on 
the  hive.  Watch  the  bees  and  see  when  they  have  settled  down  to 
steady  work,  which  you  will  be  able  to  recognize  by  the  way  they 
come  and  go  from  the  hive.  Take  a  look  at  the  hive  once  in  a  while 
and  when  you  see  the  upper  part  of  the  brood  frames  filled  with  nice, 
white,  capped-over  honey,  and  the  hive  running  over  with  bees  put 
on  your  supers,  the  extracting  super  next  to  the  brood  frame  as  the 
bees  will  enter  this  more  readily  than  the  comb  honey  super.  Examine 
the  super  once  in  a  while ;  if  the  nectar  is  plentiful  you  will  soon  see 
them  in  the  first  one.  Now  if  you  are  working  for  the  finest  white  comb 
honey,  watch  when  this  honey  appears  in  the  extracting  super  and 
replace  it  with  a  comb-honey  super,  placing  the  extracting  super  on 
top  of  all  the  comb-honey  supers.  When  the  first  comb-honey  super  is 
about  two-thirds  filled  with  capped  sections,  raise  it  up  and  put  an 
empty  comb-honey  super  under  it  next  the  brood  chamber.  Do  this 
until  the  honey  flow  from  which  you  wish  to  get  the  comb  honey  is 
about  over,  or  the  sections  are  all  filled ;  then  place  your  extracting 
super  next  the  brood  frame  and  save  it  to  feed  the  bees  during  the 
winter  or  to  build  them  up  on  in  the  spring. 

BEEKEEPER'S  LIBRARY 

There  is  already  a  large  literature  on  bee  keeping,  all  interesting 
reading  and  more  or  less  practical.  From  this  literature  a  few  publi- 
cations may  be  selected  which  are  really  helpful,  and  some  of  them 
vital  and  necessary  to  him  who  would  make  it  a  business  and  therefore 
wishes  to  be  well  informed  on  the  subject. 

The  following  is  a  selected  list  of  publications  which  should  be 
in  the  hands  of  all  progressive  beekeepers: 

The  University  of  California  offers  a  Correspondence  Course  in 
Beekeeping  consisting  of  fifteen  lessons,  application  for  which  may 
be  made  to  the  Division  of  Agricultural  Education. 


10 

BULLETINS  FOR  FREE  DISTRIBUTION 

University  of  California  Bulletin  274,  The  Common  Honey  Bee  as  an  Agent 
in  Prune  Pollination. 

(The  following  to  be  obtained  by  addressing  the  Division  of  Publications, 
U.  S.  Dept.  of  Agriculture,  Washington,  D.  C.) : 

Farmers '  Bulletin  No.  442,  Treatment  of  Bee  Diseases. 

Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  447,  Bees. 

Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  503,  Comb  Honey. 

Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  695,  Outdoor  Wintering  of  Bees. 

Farmers'  Bulletin  No.  653,  Honey  and  its  Uses  in  the  Home. 

BULLETINS  FOR  SALE  BY  THE  SUPERINTENDENT  OF  DOCUMENTS 

The  following  publications  can  no  longer  be  obtained  from  the 
Department  of  Agriculture,  but  may  be  secured  from  the  Superin- 
tendent of  Documents  at  Washington  at  the  prices  indicated.  Remit- 
tances should  be  made  to  the  Superintendent  of  Documents,  Govern- 
ment Printing  Office,  Washington,  D.  C,  by  postal  money  order, 
express  order  or  New  York  draft.  If  currency  is  sent,  it  will  be  at 
sender's  risk.  Postage  stamps,  defaced  or  worn  coins,  foreign  coins 
and  uncertified  checks  will  not  be  accepted. 

Ent.  Bui.  No.     55,  Rearing    of   Queen    Bees 5  cents 

Ent.  Bui.  No.     70,  Report  of  Meeting  of  Inspectors  of  Apiaries,  San 

Antonio,    Texas,    Nov.    12,    1906    15  cents 

Ent.  Bui.  No.     75,  Part  I,  Production  and  Care  of  Extracted  Honey...  5  cents 

Ent.  Bui.  No.     75,  Part  II,  Wax  Moths  and  American  Foul  Brood 5  cents 

Ent.  Bui.  No.     75,  Part  III,  Bee  Diseases  in  Massachusetts  5  cents 

Ent.  Bui.  No.     75,  Part    IV,    Relation    of    Etiology    (Cause)    of    Bee 

Diseases    to    Treatment 5  cents 

Ent.  Bui.  No.     75,  Part  V,  Brief  Survey  of  Hawaiian  Bee  Keeping  ....15  cents 

Ent.  Bui.  No.     75,  Part  VI,  Status  of  Apiculture  in  United  States  5  cents 

Ent.  Bui.  No.     75,  Part  VII,  Bee  Keeping  in  Massachusetts  5  cents 

Ent.  Bui.  No.     75,  Parts  I-VII,  complete  with  Contents  and  Index  ....30  cents 

Ent.  Bui.  No.     98,  Historical  Notes  on  Causes  of  Bee  Diseases  10  cents 

Ent.  Bui.  No.  121,  Behavior  of  Honey  Bee  in  Pollen  Collecting  5  cents 

Ent.  Cir.  No.  138,  Occurrence  of  Bee  Diseases  in  United  States  5  cents 

Ent.  Cir.  No.  157,  Cause  of  European  Foul  Brood  5  cents 

Ent.  Cir.  No.  161,  Manipulation  of  Wax  Scales  of  Honey  Bee  5  cents 

Ent.  Cir.  No.  169,  Sacbrood,   a  Disease   of  Bees   5  cents 

Ent.  Tech.  Series  18,  Anatomy  of  Honey  Bee  20  cents 

Dept.  Bui.  No.     92,  Destruction  of  Germs  of  Infectious  Bee  Diseases 

by   Heating    5  cents 

Dept.  Bui.  No.     93,  Temperature  of  Honeybee  Cluster  in  Winter  5  cents 

Dept.  Bui.  No.     96,  Temperature  of  Bee  Colony  5  cents 

Dept.  Bui.  No.  325,  Honeybees:    Wintering,    Yields,   Imports    and   Ex- 
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Dept.  Bui.  No.  431,  Sacbrood    10  cents 

Dept.  Bui.  No.  489,  Survey  of  Beekeeping  in  North  Carolina  5  cents 


11 

Journal   of   Agricultural   Research,   Vol.   VIII,   No.    1 1,   Spore-Forming 

Bacteria  of  the  Apiary  15  cents 

Chem.  Bui.  No.  154,  Chemical  Analysis  and  Composition  of  Imported 

Honey  from  Cuba,  Mexico  and  Haiti  5  cents 

Hawaii  Agr.  Exp.  Sta.  Bui.  No.  17,  Hawaiian  Honeys  5  cents 

Porto  Rico  Agr.  Exp.  Sta.  Bui.  No.  15,  Porto  Rican  Beekeeping  5  cents 

BEE  JOURNALS  PUBLISHED  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES 

The  Western  Honey  Bee,  Covina,   Cal.     Price  $1.00  per  year. 
American  Bee  Journal,  Hamilton,  111.,  Price  $1.00  per  year. 
Gleanings  in  Bee  Culture,  Medina,  Ohio,  Price  $1.00  per  year. 
Domestic  Beekeeper,  Northstar,  Mich. 
Beekeepers'  Item,  New  Branfels,   Texas. 

BOOKS  RECOMMENDED  TO  BEEKEEPERS 

ABC  and  XYZ  of  Bee  Culture,  A.  I.  and  E.  R.  Root,  Price  $2.50 

Beekeeping,  E.  F.  Philips,  Price  $2.00. 

Productive  Beekeeping,  F.  C.  Pellett,  Price  $1.50. 

Langstroth  on  the  Hive  and  Honey  Bee,  revised  by  C.  P.  Dadant. 

Fifty  Years  Among  the  Bees,  C.  C.  Miller. 

Advanced  Bee  Culture,  W.  Z.  Hutchinson. 

First  Lessons  in  Beekeeping,  C.  P.  Dadant. 

For  Inspection  of  Apiaries. — Apply  to  your  County  Inspector  or 
County  Farm  Advisor. 

Supplies  for  Beekeepers. — Manufacturers  or  agents  of  beekeepers' 
supplies  are  located  in  all  parts  of  the  United  States.  The  10-frame 
Langstroth  hive  is  recommended  above  all  others.  It  is  not  patented 
and  may  be  had  from  all  dealers. 


A  Back  Yard  Apiary  Producing  a  Hundred.  Pounds,  or  Over,  of 
Surplus  Honey  Every  Year 


STATION  PUBLICATIONS   AVAILABLE   FOR  FREE   DISTRIBUTION 


REPORTS 

Adaptation,  and  Grafting. 


Appendix  to  Viticultural 


1897.     Resistant  Vines,  their  Selection, 
Report  for  1896. 

1902.  Report  of  the  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  for   1898-1901. 

1903.  Report  of  the  Agricultural  Experiment   Station  for   1901-03. 

1904.  Twenty-second  Report  of  the  Agricultural  Experiment   Station  for   1903-04. 

1914.  Report  of  the  College  of  Agriculture  and  the  Agricultural  Experiment  Station,   July, 

1913-June,    1914. 

1915.  Report  of  the  College  of  Agriculture  and  the  Agricultural  Experiment  Station,   July, 

1914-June,    1915. 

1916.  Report  of  the  College  of  Agriculture  and  the  Agricultural   Experiment  Station,   July. 

1915-June,   1916. 


No. 

230. 
241. 

242. 
244. 
246. 
248. 

249. 
250. 
251. 


252. 
253. 

255. 
257. 
261. 

262. 

263. 
264. 
265. 
266. 


No. 
82. 

107. 

108. 
109. 


113. 
114. 
115. 
117. 

118. 
121. 

124. 
126. 
127. 
128. 
129. 
130. 
131. 
132. 
133. 
134. 
135. 
136. 
137. 
138. 
139. 


140. 


141. 


BULLETINS 

No. 

Enological  Investigations.  267. 

Vine  Pruning  in  California,  Part  I.  268. 

Humus  in  California  Soils.  270. 
Utilization  of  Waste  Oranges. 
Vine  Pruning  in  California,  Part  II. 

The  Economic  Value  of  Pacific  Coast  271. 

Kelps.  272. 

Stock-Poisoning  Plants  of  California.  273. 
The  Loquat. 

Utilization  of  the  Nitrogen  and  Organic  274. 

Matter   in   Septic   and   Imhoff   Tank 

Sludges.  275. 
Deterioration  of  Lumber. 

Irrigation   and   Soil   Conditions   in  the  276. 

Sierra  Nevada  Foothills,  California.  277. 

The   Citricola   Scale.  278. 

New  Dosage  Tables.  279. 

Melaxuma    of    the    Walnut,     "Juglans  280. 

regia." 

Citrus   Diseases   of   Florida   and   Cuba  281. 

Compared  with  Those  of  California. 

Size  Grade  for  Ripe  Olives.  282. 
The  Calibration  of  the  Leakage  Meter. 

Cottony  Rot  of  Lemons  in   California.  283. 

A  Spotting  of  Citrus  Fruits  Due  to  the  284. 

Action  of  Oil  Liberated  from  the  Rind.  285. 

CIRCULARS 

No. 

The     Common     Ground     Squirrels     of  142. 

California. 

Spraying  Walnut  Trees  for  Blight  and  143. 

Aphis  Control. 

Grape  Juice.  144. 

Communitv  or  Local   Extension  Work  145. 

by  the  High  School  Agricultural  De- 
partment. 146. 
Correspondence  Courses  in  Agriculture. 
Increasing  the  Dutv  of  Water.  147. 
Grafting  Vinifera  Vineyards.  148. 
The    Selection    and    Cost    of    a    Small  150. 

Pumping  Plant.  151. 

The  County  Farm  Bureau.  152. 
Some   Things    the    Prospective    Settler 

Should  Know.  153. 
Alfalfa  Silage  for  Fattening  Steers. 

Spraying  for  the  Grape  Leaf  Hopper.  154. 
House  Fumiaration. 

Insecticide  Formulas.  155. 

The  Control  of  Citrus  Insects.  156. 

Cabbage  Growing  in  California.  157. 

Spraying:  for  Control  of  Walnut  Aphis.  158. 

When  to  Vaccinate  against  Hog  Cholera.  15~9. 

County  Farm  Adviser.  160. 

Control  of  Raisin   Insects.  161. 

Official  Tests  of  Dairy  Cows.  162. 
Melilotus  Indica. 

Wood  Decay  in  Orchard  Trees.  163. 
The  Silo  in  California  Agriculture. 

The   Generation    of   Hydrocyanic   Acid  164. 

Gas  in  Fumigation  by  Portable  Ma-  165. 

chines. 

The  Practical  Application  of  Improved  166. 

Methods  of  Fermentation   in  Califor-  167. 

nia  Wineries  during  1913  and  1914.  168. 
Standard   Insecticides  and   Fungicides 

versus  Secret  Preparations. 


Experiments  with  Stocks  for  Citrus. 

Growing  and  Grafting  Olive  Seedlings. 

A  Comparison  of  Annual  Cropping,  Bi- 
ennial Cropping,  and  Green  Manures 
on  the  Yield  of  Wheat. 

Feeding  Dairy  Calves  in  California. 

Commercial  Fertilizers. 

Preliminary  Report  on  Kearney  Vine- 
yard Experimental  Drain. 

The  Common  Honey  Bee  as  an  Agent 
in   Prune   Pollination. 

The  Cultivation  of  Belladonna  in  Cali- 
fornia. 

The  Pomegranate. 

Sudan  Grass. 

Grain  Sorghums. 

Irrigation  of  Rice  in  California. 

Irrigation  of  Alfalfa  in  the  Sacramento 
Valley. 

Control  of  the  Pocket  Gophers  in  Cali- 
fornia. 

Trials  with  California  Silage  Crops  for 
Dairy  Cows. 

The  Olive  Insects  of  California. 

Irrigation  of  Alfalfa  in  Imperial  Valley. 

The  Milch  Goat  in  California. 


Practical  and  Inexpensive  Poultry  Ap- 
pliances. 

Control   of    Grasshoppers    in    Imperial 
Valley. 

Oidium  or  Powdery  Mildew  of  the  Vine. 

Suggestions  to  Poultrymen  concerning 
Chicken  Pox. 

Jellies    and    Marmalades    from    Citrus 
Fruits. 

Tomato  Growing  in  California. 

"Lungworms." 

Round  Worms  in  Poultry. 

Feeding  and  Management  of  Hogs. 

Some  Observations  on  the  Bulk  Hand- 
ling of  Grain  in  California. 

Announcement  of  the  California   State 
Dairy  Cow  Competition,   1916-18. 

Irrigation   Practice  in   Growing  Small 
Fruits  in  California. 

Bovine  Tuberculosis. 

How  to  Operate  an  Incubator. 

Control  of  the  Pear  Scab. 

Home  and  Farm  Canning. 

Agriculture  in  the   Imperial  Valley. 

Lettuce   Growing   in   California. 

Potatoes  in  California. 

White    Diarrhoea    and    Coccidiosis    of 
Chicks. 

Fundamentals  Affecting  the  Food  Sup- 
ply of  the  United  States. 

Small  Fruit  Culture  in  California. 

Fundamentals    of    Sugar    Beet    under 
California  Conditions. 

The  County  Farm  Bureau. 

Feeding  Stuffs  of  Minor  Importance. 

Spraying  for  the  Control  of  Wild  Morn 
ing-Glory  within  the  Fog  Belt. 


